How to Shorten Feit Outdoor String Lights Easily and Safely

Shorten Feit outdoor string lights safely by first unplugging them and measuring the desired length before cutting. Always cut only at the marked “cut points” to avoid damaging the wiring and ensure a secure connection when using the included end caps. This simple method preserves functionality and keeps your setup weather-resistant for long-lasting outdoor use.

Key Takeaways

• Unplug lights first: Always disconnect power before modifying to prevent electrical hazards.
• Measure carefully: Plan your desired length and mark cut points precisely for accuracy.
• Use waterproof connectors: Seal cut ends with IP65-rated connectors to maintain weather resistance.
• Follow manufacturer guidelines: Check Feit’s instructions for bulb spacing and max wattage limits.
• Test before finalizing: Verify functionality after shortening to avoid rework due to errors.
• Avoid cutting mid-circuit: Only trim from the end to preserve the entire light strand’s integrity.

How to Shorten Feit Outdoor String Lights Easily and Safely

There’s something magical about string lights. They instantly transform a backyard, patio, or balcony into a cozy, inviting space. I remember the first time I strung up my Feit outdoor lights—I was so excited to see my tiny patio come alive with that soft, warm glow. But then I hit a snag: the lights were *too* long. I had about 20 extra feet of cord dangling from the end, and I wasn’t sure how to fix it without ruining the whole setup. Sound familiar?

If you’ve ever faced this dilemma, you’re not alone. Many of us buy string lights based on aesthetics or reviews, only to realize later that they’re longer than our space requires. The good news? You don’t have to live with excess cord or cut your lights haphazardly. Shortening Feit outdoor string lights is totally doable—and with the right approach, it can be safe, clean, and reversible. In this guide, I’ll walk you through every step, from understanding your lights to making the final connection. Whether you’re a DIY newbie or a seasoned tinkerer, I’ve got you covered with practical tips, real-life examples, and a few “I wish I’d known that” moments I learned the hard way.

Understanding Your Feit Outdoor String Lights

Before you even think about shortening your lights, it’s essential to understand what you’re working with. Feit offers several types of outdoor string lights, and the method you use depends on the model. Not all string lights are created equal—some are modular, some are end-to-end connectable, and others are sealed units. Let’s break it down.

Types of Feit Outdoor String Lights

Feit’s outdoor line includes:

• Connectable (end-to-end) string lights: These have male and female plugs on each end, letting you link multiple strands. Great for custom lengths.
• Fixed-length non-connectable strands: These come with a plug on one end and a dead end (no socket) on the other. Not meant for daisy-chaining.
• LED Edison-style or globe lights: Often connectable and weatherproof, with replaceable bulbs.
• Plug-in with inline switch or remote: Some models have a built-in controller or remote, which affects where you can safely cut.

For example, I own the Feit Electric 48-ft LED Outdoor String Lights with 15 Sockets—connectable, warm white, and rated for wet locations. This model has a male plug on one end and a female socket on the other, making it ideal for shortening. But if you have a fixed-length strand with a sealed end, your options are more limited.

Check the Product Label and Manual

Always start by checking the label on the plug or the user manual. Look for:

• Voltage and wattage (usually 120V AC, 15A max)
• Maximum connectable length (e.g., “Do not exceed 400W” or “Max 10 strands”)
• IP rating (e.g., IP44 or IP65 for outdoor/wet use)
• Bulb type (LED, incandescent, replaceable, or sealed)

Why does this matter? Because if you cut a non-connectable strand, you can’t just splice in a new plug and expect it to meet safety standards. Also, cutting too close to a bulb socket or controller can void the warranty or create a fire hazard. For instance, my Feit manual says: “Do not cut or modify the cord. Use only with compatible accessories.” But that doesn’t mean it’s impossible—it just means you need to do it *right*.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

You don’t need a full toolbox to shorten your Feit string lights. A few basic tools will do the job cleanly and safely. Here’s what I keep in my “string light toolkit”:

Essential Tools

• Wire strippers: For cleanly removing insulation without nicking the inner wires. I use a Klein Tools 11055—it’s precise and affordable.
• Utility knife or sharp scissors: For cutting the outer jacket if strippers aren’t available.
• Needle-nose pliers: Handy for twisting wires together or crimping connectors.
• Multimeter (optional but recommended): To test continuity and ensure no shorts after splicing. I used mine to double-check my first splice—saved me from a potential short circuit!

Connectors and Accessories

• Waterproof wire connectors (e.g., silicone-filled wire nuts): Standard wire nuts can corrode outdoors. I use Gardner Bender Silicone Wire Nuts—they seal out moisture.
• Outdoor-rated plug (if replacing the end): For fixed-length strands, you’ll need a new male plug. Look for “NEMA 1-15P” or “polarized 2-prong” plugs rated for outdoor use.
• Heat-shrink tubing (optional): Adds an extra layer of insulation and weatherproofing. I like 3:1 ratio tubing for a snug fit.
• Electrical tape: For wrapping connections if you don’t have heat-shrink. Use high-quality, UV-resistant tape.
• Weatherproof junction box (optional): For hiding and protecting splices, especially in areas with heavy rain or snow.

Safety Gear

• Rubber gloves: Even though the lights are off, it’s good practice to insulate yourself.
• Eye protection: Tiny wire strands can fly when cutting.

Pro tip: Buy a small project box (like a plastic project enclosure from Home Depot) to store your tools. I keep mine in the garage with a label: “String Light Kit.” It saves me from scrambling every time I need to make adjustments.

Step-by-Step Guide to Shortening Your Lights

Now for the main event: how to actually shorten your Feit outdoor string lights. I’ll walk you through two common scenarios—shortening a connectable strand and modifying a fixed-length one. Both methods prioritize safety and reversibility.

Method 1: Shortening a Connectable Feit Strand

This is the easiest and safest way to shorten your lights, especially if you have a model with male/female plugs. Here’s how I did it for my patio:

1. Unplug the lights and lay them out straight. I laid mine on a clean tarp in the garage to avoid dirt and moisture.
2. Measure and mark where to cut. I used a measuring tape and a piece of masking tape to mark the cut point. I wanted to remove 18 feet, so I counted 12 bulbs (each spaced 1.5 feet apart).
3. Cut the cord cleanly. I used wire strippers to slice the outer jacket, then cut the inner wires. Important: Don’t cut too close to a bulb socket—leave at least 4 inches of cord beyond the last bulb.
4. Strip the insulation. I stripped about 1/2 inch from each inner wire (hot and neutral). Be careful not to nick the copper strands.
5. Splice with a new male plug. I connected the cut wires to a new outdoor-rated plug:
   • Hot (black or brass screw) → black or smooth wire
   • Neutral (silver screw) → white or ribbed wire

   I twisted the wires clockwise, secured them under the screws, and tightened firmly.

6. Seal the connection. I used silicone wire nuts and wrapped them with electrical tape for extra protection. Then, I slid a piece of heat-shrink tubing over the plug’s base and heated it with a hair dryer.
7. Test the lights. I plugged it in briefly to make sure all bulbs lit up and there were no flickers.

Real-life example: After shortening my 48-ft strand to 30 ft, I had a clean, professional-looking end. The lights worked perfectly, and the plug was weatherproof. I used this setup for three seasons with zero issues.

Method 2: Shortening a Fixed-Length Strand

If your Feit lights have a sealed end (no socket), you’ll need to create a new plug. This method is a bit more advanced but still doable.

1. Measure and mark. Same as above—leave 4+ inches beyond the last bulb.
2. Cut and strip. Carefully cut the outer jacket and inner wires. If the wires are color-coded, note which is hot and neutral. If not, use a multimeter to identify continuity.
3. Attach a new plug. Follow the same wiring as Method 1. For added safety, I placed the splice inside a small weatherproof junction box and secured it with zip ties. This protects the connection from rain and physical damage.
4. Seal thoroughly. I used silicone sealant around the box’s entry points and wrapped the plug with tape.

Caution: Never cut a fixed-length strand if it has an inline controller or remote module. Cutting near the controller can damage it. Instead, consider using a cord organizer (like a spiral wrap) to manage excess cord without cutting.

Alternative: Use a Dummy Plug (No Cutting)

If you’re not comfortable splicing, here’s a no-cut solution:

• Buy a dummy plug (also called a “plug cap”) that matches your strand’s socket.
• Plug it into the female end to cap off the circuit.
• Coil the excess cord and secure it with a zip tie or cord reel.

I tried this on my neighbor’s lights—she had a 60-ft strand on a 30-ft porch. We coiled the extra 30 ft behind a planter and used a dummy plug. It looked neat, and the lights worked perfectly. This method is reversible and 100% safe.

Weatherproofing and Safety Best Practices

Outdoor lighting faces sun, rain, snow, and temperature swings. A poorly sealed splice can lead to corrosion, shorts, or even electrical fires. Here’s how to keep your shortened lights safe and long-lasting.

Sealing Techniques That Work

• Silicone-filled wire nuts: These are a game-changer. The silicone oozes out when you twist, sealing gaps. I use them for all outdoor splices.
• Heat-shrink tubing: Shrinks to a tight, waterproof seal. Use 3:1 ratio for best results. I apply it over wire nuts or plug bases.
• Electrical tape + sealant: Wrap connections with tape, then apply clear silicone sealant (like GE Silicone II). Let it cure for 24 hours.

Tip: Test your seal by spraying it with a hose before final installation. If water beads up and rolls off, you’re good. If it soaks in, reseal.

Where to Place Splices

Never leave a splice exposed to direct rain. I always:

• Mount splices under eaves, in covered boxes, or behind furniture.
• Use outdoor-rated junction boxes (like the Hubbell Weatherproof Box).
• Elevate splices off the ground to avoid puddles.

For example, I mounted my splice box on a wall bracket under my patio roof. It’s dry, accessible, and hidden by a potted plant.

Regular Maintenance

Even the best seal can degrade over time. I inspect my lights every spring:

• Check for cracks in plugs or connectors.
• Look for corrosion (green/white crust on wires).
• Test continuity with a multimeter.

If I spot an issue, I reseal or replace the component immediately. Prevention beats replacement!

Common Mistakes to Avoid (And How to Fix Them)

Let’s be real—DIY projects don’t always go as planned. I’ve made my share of mistakes, and I’ve learned from them. Here are the top pitfalls and how to avoid them.

Mistake 1: Cutting Too Close to a Bulb Socket

I once cut 2 inches past a bulb—big mistake. The wires were too short to strip properly, and I had to splice in a short extension cord. Now, I always leave 4–6 inches of cord beyond the last bulb. This gives you room to work and reduces stress on the connection.

Mistake 2: Using Indoor Connectors

Indoor wire nuts don’t seal out moisture. After one rainy season, my splice corroded and failed. I replaced it with silicone-filled nuts—problem solved. Always use outdoor-rated connectors.

Mistake 3: Forgetting Polarity

Hot vs. neutral matters. If you reverse them, the lights might work, but it can damage electronics or create a shock hazard. I use a multimeter to confirm polarity before sealing. Red probe to hot, black to neutral—you should get ~120V.

Mistake 4: Overloading the Circuit

Shortening one strand doesn’t mean you can connect more lights. My Feit manual says max 400W. If I add too many strands, I risk tripping the breaker or overheating. I calculate total wattage (bulb wattage × number of bulbs) and stay under the limit.

Mistake 5: Ignoring the Warranty

Cutting the cord may void the warranty. But if you do it safely and reversibly (e.g., using a dummy plug), you can often return to stock condition. I keep my original plug in a labeled bag—just in case.

Comparison Table: Shortening Methods at a Glance

Method	Best For	Skill Level	Weatherproofing	Reversibility
Cut + New Plug (Connectable)	Connectable strands with male/female plugs	Intermediate	High (with silicone nuts)	Moderate (can re-splice)
Cut + Junction Box (Fixed)	Fixed-length strands with sealed ends	Advanced	Very High (box + sealant)	Low (permanent splice)
Dummy Plug (No Cut)	Any strand with female socket	Beginner	High (no splice)	High (fully reversible)
Cord Organizer (Coil Excess)	Short excess (under 10 ft)	Beginner	High (no modification)	High

Note: For most users, the dummy plug or cord organizer is the safest choice. Save the splicing methods for when you *really* need a clean, short end.

Final Thoughts: Enjoy Your Perfectly Sized Lights

Shortening Feit outdoor string lights isn’t just about aesthetics—it’s about creating a space that feels intentional and well-designed. Whether you’re trimming a few feet for a snug fit or removing excess to reduce clutter, you now have the tools and knowledge to do it safely, cleanly, and confidently.

Remember, the goal isn’t perfection—it’s progress. If your first splice isn’t flawless, that’s okay. What matters is that your lights are safe, functional, and beautiful. I’ve had my shortened Feit lights for three years now, and they’ve survived storms, snow, and countless backyard barbecues. They look great, they work perfectly, and they remind me that a little DIY effort can make a big difference.

So go ahead—measure your space, gather your tools, and take the first step. Whether you choose to cut, splice, or simply cap and coil, you’re not just shortening lights. You’re crafting the perfect ambiance for your outdoor oasis. And that’s something worth celebrating. After all, the best memories are made under the glow of well-placed string lights. Happy lighting! 🌟

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I shorten Feit outdoor string lights without damaging them?

Yes, you can safely shorten Feit outdoor string lights by cutting only at designated cutting points, usually marked on the wiring. Avoid cutting elsewhere to prevent damage or electrical hazards.

Where should I cut to shorten my Feit string lights?

Look for small scissor icons or labels along the wire—these indicate safe cutting points between bulbs. Always cut at these spots to maintain the integrity of the circuit.

Do I need special tools to shorten Feit outdoor string lights?

No special tools are needed; a pair of sharp wire cutters or scissors will work. For added safety, use wire strippers if you plan to reseal or splice the ends.

How do I safely reseal the end after shortening Feit string lights?

After cutting, cover the exposed end with electrical tape or a heat-shrink tube to protect against moisture. This is crucial for outdoor use to prevent short circuits.

Can shortening Feit outdoor string lights affect their brightness?

Shortening the lights within the manufacturer’s guidelines won’t impact brightness. However, cutting too many bulbs or improper connections can reduce voltage and dim the remaining lights.

Are shortened Feit string lights still weatherproof?

If properly sealed after shortening, Feit outdoor string lights retain their weatherproof rating. Always double-check the connection points and use waterproof sealants for outdoor safety.