How to Hang Outdoor String Lights on Brick Without Drilling

Hang outdoor string lights on brick without drilling using heavy-duty adhesive hooks or brick-specific clips—these damage-free solutions securely grip textured surfaces and support the weight of most lighting strands. For a quick, weather-resistant setup, pair them with removable outdoor mounting tape or magnetic hooks to create a stunning ambiance in minutes, no tools required.

Key Takeaways

• Use adhesive hooks: Strong, removable hooks secure lights without damaging brick.
• Opt for magnetic mounts: Ideal for metal surfaces near brick walls.
• Try tension rods: Span lights between walls or railings effortlessly.
• Wrap around features: Drape lights on existing structures like fences or trees.
• Choose weatherproof clips: Ensure durability in rain, wind, and humidity.
• Plan layout first: Measure spacing to avoid gaps or overcrowding.

Why Hanging String Lights on Brick Can Be Tricky (And How to Do It Right)

There’s something magical about outdoor string lights. Whether you’re hosting a cozy backyard dinner, enjoying a quiet evening on the patio, or just want to add a little sparkle to your outdoor space, these lights can transform any area into a warm, inviting oasis. But if your house has a brick exterior, you might feel like you’re facing a bit of a challenge. Drilling into brick? That sounds like a weekend project gone wrong—dust everywhere, cracked mortar, and the risk of damaging your beautiful brickwork.

I remember when I first tried to hang string lights on my brick patio. I stood there with a drill, staring at the wall, wondering if I was about to ruin the look of my home. Then it hit me: there had to be a way to do this without drilling. After some trial, error, and a few YouTube deep dives, I found several clever, damage-free methods that actually work. And now, I’m sharing those secrets with you—because nobody should have to choose between ambiance and preserving their brick.

Understanding Your Brick Surface (Before You Hang a Single Light)

Brick vs. Mortar: Know the Difference

First things first: not all brick surfaces are the same. Before you even think about hanging lights, take a close look at your brick wall or patio. The key distinction is between bricks and mortar joints. Bricks are hard, dense, and not ideal for most adhesive-based solutions. Mortar, on the other hand, is softer, slightly textured, and often more receptive to certain types of mounting hardware—especially if it’s in good condition.

Here’s a quick tip: run your finger along a mortar joint. If it feels smooth and crumbly, it might not hold weight well. But if it’s solid and slightly rough, it’s a better candidate for non-drilling methods. Also, check for signs of spalling (surface flaking) or crumbling—these indicate aging mortar that won’t support much weight.

Assessing Weight and Wind Load

String lights vary in weight. A 25-foot strand of mini LEDs might weigh just a few ounces, while a heavy-duty Edison-style strand with larger bulbs can weigh over a pound—especially when wet from rain. Add wind, and that light load becomes a force trying to pull your lights down.

Think of it this way: a light breeze can push on your lights like a tiny sail. Over time, this constant tugging can weaken adhesive mounts or dislodge hooks. So, when choosing a hanging method, always consider the total weight of your lights plus a safety buffer for wind and weather.

Climate and Environmental Factors

Your local weather plays a big role. If you live in a rainy, humid, or salty coastal area, moisture resistance is critical. Adhesives that work in dry climates might fail in damp conditions. Similarly, extreme heat can soften adhesives, while freezing temperatures can make them brittle.

For example, I live in a region with hot summers and cold, wet winters. I once used a strong adhesive hook that held fine in summer—but by January, the cold had made it brittle, and a gust of wind sent my lights crashing down. Lesson learned: choose materials rated for your climate.

Top 5 No-Drill Methods to Hang String Lights on Brick

1. Adhesive Outdoor Hooks (The Most Popular Choice)

Adhesive hooks designed for outdoor use are a game-changer. Brands like Command Outdoor, Scotch Outdoor Mounting Tape, and 3M VHB Outdoor make heavy-duty, weather-resistant hooks and strips that stick to brick and mortar—no drilling needed.

How to Use Them:

• Clean the brick or mortar surface with rubbing alcohol or a damp cloth. Let it dry completely.
• Remove the backing from the adhesive and press the hook firmly into place. Hold for 30–60 seconds.
• Wait the recommended time (usually 1 hour) before hanging anything.
• Hang your string lights by looping the cord or using the hook’s built-in loop.

Pros:

• Easy to install and remove (no damage).
• Available in various weight capacities (up to 5 lbs per hook).
• Work well on both brick and mortar.

Cons:

• May fail in extreme heat, cold, or prolonged moisture.
• Not ideal for very heavy lights or long-term installations.

Tip: For longer runs, use multiple hooks spaced every 18–24 inches. This prevents sagging and reduces stress on individual hooks.

2. Brick Clips (The Hidden Gem)

Brick clips are small, U-shaped plastic or metal clips that grip the edge of a brick without damaging it. They’re designed to slide over the top or side of a brick, holding your string lights securely.

How to Use Them:

• Choose clips designed for your brick size (standard bricks are 2 1/4″ x 3 3/4″ x 8″).
• Slide the clip over the top edge of the brick, ensuring it grips both sides.
• Loop your light strand through the clip’s attachment point.
• For a straight line, align clips across multiple bricks.

Pros:

• No adhesives, no drilling—fully reusable.
• Great for temporary or seasonal setups.
• Work on both horizontal and vertical brick edges.

Cons:

• May not fit on irregular or damaged bricks.
• Can be tricky to align for straight lines.
• Less secure in high-wind areas (use extra clips for safety).

Tip: I use brick clips for my holiday lights. They go up in 15 minutes and come down just as fast—no residue, no mess.

3. Tension Rods with Brick Hooks (For Patios and Overhangs)

If you’re hanging lights across a patio, pergola, or under an overhang, tension rods with brick hooks can be a smart solution. These rods stretch between two brick walls or columns, creating a temporary support beam.

How to Use Them:

• Measure the distance between your two brick surfaces.
• Buy a tension rod slightly longer than that distance (it will compress and grip the bricks).
• Attach S-hooks or carabiners to the rod’s ends.
• Stretch the rod between the bricks and hang your lights from the rod.

Pros:

• No damage to brick or mortar.
• Adjustable and portable.
• Great for creating “zones” in large outdoor spaces.

Cons:

• Only works between two solid brick surfaces.
• Rod must be perfectly level to stay secure.
• Not suitable for long-term or permanent installations.

Tip: Use rubber end caps on the rod to prevent slipping and protect the brick.

4. Gutter Hooks (When You Have a Roofline)

If your brick wall has a roof or eave with gutters, you can use gutter hooks. These clip onto the edge of your gutter and hang down, providing a perfect anchor point for string lights.

How to Use Them:

• Choose gutter hooks designed for your gutter type (K-style, half-round, etc.).
• Clip the hook over the gutter edge.
• Hang your string lights from the hook’s loop or arm.
• Space hooks every 2–3 feet for even support.

Pros:

• Zero contact with brick—ideal for historic or protected homes.
• Easy to install and remove.
• Works well for long, straight runs.

Cons:

• Only works if you have gutters.
• May interfere with gutter cleaning or maintenance.
• Can be less secure in high winds.

Tip: For extra stability, use zip ties to secure the light strand to the hook.

5. Freestanding Light Poles or Bases (The Creative Workaround)

When all else fails, go freestanding. Use tall planters, weighted bases, or shepherd’s hooks to create anchor points away from the brick. Then run your lights from the brick to the freestanding poles.

How to Use Them:

• Place a weighted base or tall planter near the brick wall.
• Insert a metal or wooden pole into the base.
• Use one of the above methods (adhesive hook, brick clip, etc.) to attach the light strand to the brick at the starting point.
• Run the lights to the freestanding pole and secure them with clips or ties.

Pros:

• Zero damage to brick or mortar.
• Highly customizable and decorative.
• Ideal for patios, decks, or open yards.

Cons:

• Takes up floor space.
• May not work for long distances without intermediate supports.
• Requires more planning and setup.

Tip: I use a large terracotta planter with a metal shepherd’s hook. The planter hides the base, and the hook holds the lights at the perfect height.

Step-by-Step Guide: Installing String Lights on Brick Without Drilling

Step 1: Plan Your Layout

Before you buy anything, sketch your lighting plan. Decide where the lights will start, end, and how they’ll connect. Use painter’s tape to mark anchor points on the brick. This helps you visualize the final look and avoid last-minute changes.

Pro tip: Always leave a little extra cord at the start for plugging in. You don’t want to stretch the lights too tight.

Step 2: Choose the Right Method (Based on Your Needs)

Ask yourself:

• How long will the lights stay up? (Seasonal vs. permanent)
• How much weight do I need to support?
• What’s the weather like in my area?
• Do I have gutters, overhangs, or nearby structures?

For a temporary setup (like holiday lights), brick clips or adhesive hooks work great. For a semi-permanent patio setup, consider a mix of gutter hooks and freestanding poles.

Step 3: Prepare the Surface

Clean the brick or mortar with a damp cloth or rubbing alcohol. Remove dirt, grease, or old adhesive residue. Let the surface dry completely—this is crucial for adhesive hooks to work properly.

Warning: Don’t use soap or detergent. It can leave a residue that weakens the bond.

Step 4: Install the Mounting Hardware

Follow the instructions for your chosen method. For adhesive hooks, press firmly and wait the recommended time. For brick clips, slide them into place and double-check the grip. For tension rods, make sure they’re level and secure.

Tip: Use a level to ensure your lights won’t sag or tilt.

Step 5: Hang the Lights

Start at one end and work your way to the other. Loop the cord through each anchor point, but don’t pull too tight—leave a little slack to prevent strain. For longer runs, use zip ties or clips to keep the lights aligned.

Pro tip: Plug in the lights before hanging the last section. This lets you test the circuit and fix any issues early.

Step 6: Secure and Test

Once the lights are up, give each anchor point a gentle tug. Make sure nothing wiggles or slips. Check for sagging or uneven spacing. Adjust as needed.

Also, test the lights at night. Look for dark spots, flickering, or loose connections. Fix any issues while you’re still on the ladder.

Common Mistakes to Avoid (And How to Fix Them)

Mistake #1: Overloading a Single Anchor Point

It’s tempting to hang all your lights from one strong hook. But this creates a single point of failure. If that hook fails, your whole setup comes down.

Solution: Distribute the weight. Use multiple hooks, clips, or poles. For long runs, aim for a support every 2–3 feet.

Mistake #2: Ignoring Weatherproofing

Even “outdoor” lights can fail if water gets into the sockets. Rain, snow, and humidity can cause short circuits or corrosion.

Solution: Use weatherproof string lights with sealed sockets. Elevate the plug connection with a covered outlet or GFCI-protected extension cord. For extra protection, use silicone sealant on socket connections (but don’t cover the bulb).

Mistake #3: Using Indoor Adhesives

Regular Command strips or indoor hooks won’t survive outdoors. They degrade in UV light, moisture, and temperature changes.

Solution: Always choose outdoor-rated adhesives. Look for terms like “weatherproof,” “UV-resistant,” and “rated for outdoor use.”

Mistake #4: Skipping the Test Run

I’ve made this mistake. I hung the lights, turned them on, and—nothing. A bulb was out, the plug was loose, or a socket was wet.

Solution: Test the lights before hanging. Plug them in, check each bulb, and make sure the cord isn’t frayed. Fix issues on the ground, not on a ladder.

Mistake #5: Not Planning for Removal

Adhesive hooks are removable, but if you leave them too long or expose them to heat, they can leave residue or damage paint.

Solution: Remove hooks gently. Use a hairdryer to warm the adhesive, then slowly peel it off. Clean the residue with rubbing alcohol.

Data Table: Comparing No-Drill Hanging Methods

Method	Max Weight	Weather Resistance	Installation Time	Best For	Lifespan
Adhesive Outdoor Hooks	3–5 lbs per hook	Moderate to High	15–30 minutes	Short-term, seasonal	6–12 months
Brick Clips	2–3 lbs per clip	High	10–20 minutes	Holiday lights, temporary	2–5 years (reusable)
Tension Rods	10–15 lbs (total)	Moderate	20–40 minutes	Patios, pergolas	1–2 years
Gutter Hooks	5–8 lbs per hook	High	15–25 minutes	Rooflines, eaves	3–5 years
Freestanding Poles	Unlimited (base-dependent)	High	30–60 minutes	Open spaces, patios	5+ years

Final Thoughts: Light Up Your Brick Without the Drill

Hanging outdoor string lights on brick doesn’t have to mean drilling holes or damaging your home. With the right tools and techniques, you can create a stunning, damage-free lighting display that lasts for seasons—or even years.

The key is to match your method to your needs. Are you going for a quick holiday setup? Brick clips or adhesive hooks are perfect. Planning a permanent patio ambiance? Combine gutter hooks with freestanding poles for a polished look. And always, always test your lights before hanging them.

I’ve used every method in this guide, and they all work—when used correctly. The best part? You can enjoy the glow of string lights without the stress of permanent damage. So grab your lights, pick your favorite method, and get ready to transform your outdoor space. Your brick wall is about to shine—literally.

Frequently Asked Questions

How can I hang outdoor string lights on brick without drilling?

Use removable adhesive hooks or brick clamps designed for masonry surfaces. These options securely hold lights without damaging the brick or requiring permanent holes.

What are the best no-drill methods for hanging string lights on brick?

Adhesive-backed hooks, magnetic hooks (for metal surfaces), and tension rods are excellent choices. For a sturdy hold, opt for heavy-duty hooks rated for outdoor use and weather resistance.

Will adhesive hooks damage my brick when I remove them?

High-quality outdoor adhesive hooks (like 3M Command™) are designed to remove cleanly without residue or damage. Always follow the manufacturer’s removal instructions to prevent chipping or staining.

How do I hang string lights on uneven or textured brick?

Use flexible brick clips or adjustable tension rods that conform to irregular surfaces. For textured bricks, ensure hooks have a wide grip to distribute weight evenly and avoid slipping.

Can I hang heavy string lights on brick without drilling?

Yes, but use heavy-duty solutions like stainless steel brick clamps or industrial-strength adhesive hooks (rated for 5+ lbs). Test weight capacity first and space hooks closer together for added support.

How do I weatherproof my outdoor string lights on brick?

Choose waterproof lights and hooks rated for outdoor use. Seal adhesive hook edges with silicone caulk to prevent moisture damage, and angle lights downward to avoid water pooling.